I turned 23 the summer I worked in Buenos Aires. It was the first time I was exposed to living in a not-so-capitalist country with a heavy variety of regulation but less security for its citizens. I’d never encountered such a dichotomy. I’d been used to much more free-market economies from the Dominican Republic to Europe to New York and the adjustment was awkward. Although beautiful, diverse, and vibrant with culture, I was taken aback by the not-so-glamorous qualities of actually living and working in Buenos Aires. As a form of therapy, I took to writing about the things that shocked me about living in Buenos Aires.
This is the recollection of my culture shock and why I didn’t enjoy Buenos Aires as much as a tourist would, upon realizing the unromanticized qualities of actually living in this South American city, especially as a Latina of Afro-indigenous descent.
Environmental Problems in Buenos Aires, Argentina
Buenos Aires literally translates to “good air” in Spanish. This was ironic because the air quality in Buenos Aires gave me 3 upper respiratory infections in 2 months. The thick black clouds of smoke puffing out of automobiles and potholes, along with the constant stench of sulfur seeping into subways cars and the windows of my 12th-floor apartment, had me questioning if there was any enforcement of environmental policies in Buenos Aires. Luckily, however, pharmaceutical regulations were as lax as the environmental policies, so I was able to self-medicate myself back to health with medicine that would have been controlled through prescriptions in the U.S.
Argentina’s Rampant Inflation & Unreliable Currency
When I first arrived, I was greeted by the remis half of which I was warned would drive me around the same block to run up the meter or take the slowest streets possible if they sensed I was a foreigner. So I put on my most neutral Spanish accent, and being Dominican, it took some effort. But alas, the Argentine accent is anything but neutral. So as I arrived at my destination, my driver asked where I was from. The age-old question that I can never answer simply. This time, I just settled for simply Dominican and handed the driver some bills to which he grimaced, explaining he didn’t have enough change and handed me back some hard candy as change.
The strange coin shortage is the least of inflation-infested Argentina’s problems. The menu prices in restaurants are constantly being crossed out and scribbled over with a higher price due to their volatile currency.
Today, most Argentineans are forced to live at home with their parents because their currency faces constant devaluation, causing landlords charge in U.S. dollars. This doesn’t bode well when their salaries remain constant with a devaluing peso.
Buenos Aire’s High Cost of Living & Lack of Resources/Free Trade
Soon after arriving at my Couchsurfer‘s hospice, I was starving. Like a true American, I sought out the instant gratification of a hot meal. Upon walking for over an hour, searching for a hot meal in this neighborhood, I quickly learned that it was easier to buy simple ingredients and cook at home. Good restaurants were very expensive, even by American standards. But even buying things to cook at home was also tricky.
My entire life, I was spoiled by supermarkets that offered an abundance and variety of food to buy. I was used to waltzing into a store and seeing an entire aisle with almost any type of everything. In Buenos Aires, the collections were much smaller and the “good stuff” had a high markup due to Argentina’s heavy importation taxes. The more affordable good stuff like cheese in the corner bodega-like stores, I was told to be wary of due to a local rumor that the corner stores shut down their refrigerators at night to save money. It was the first time in my life, where I was faced with scarcity. And it was quite the lesson for this Dominican-American, about living in a not-so-capitalist country.
Before coming here, I ignorantly thought, I’m headed for South America, why pack much? I’ll be rich with my dollars and go shopping there! Stupid 22-year old. The inflation rates in a country crippled by pseudo-socialist policies and strong protectionist tax rates have actually led many Argentines to travel to the U.S.A to go shopping and still come back saving money despite spending so much on a visa, flight, and hotel!
Safety in Buenos Aires, Argentina
So after hopelessly dragging myself around the malls and shopping stores trying to find a coat, I witness a mugging by two men who then hopped on a motorcycle and trampled over an old lady as they violently drove off into the sunset. I left the Bronx for this? I thought, bitterly.
A few weeks later, my roommate’s friend was held at gunpoint in El Bario Norte which is suppose to be one of the safer neighborhoods. They took everything away from him on his way to the airport. When they asked that he hand over his passport, he pleaded with them and they responded with a bullet. Years later, I’m still haunted by this story.
Usually, the benefit of a country with so many regulations and protectionist policies is security. Some form of safety from constantly being controlled by the government. But Buenos Aires seemed to have all the cons and none of the pros from this type of control.
However, this is not to say the same applies to the rest of the country. In fact, there are communities of travelers who love backpacking Argentina.
Health Problems in Argentina: A Meat-Lover’s Destination
Maintaining a pescatarian diet in a country that hails red meat began to take a toll on my health. I take full responsibility for waltzing into a country that subsists red meat. As a vegetarian, this was definitely my bad. I found the first few months difficult to find as many plentiful vegetarian options as I was afforded in other cities.
My first time buying spinach involved what seemed like a sketchy transaction with a corner store man who did not speak Spanish or English. I eventually found giant chain supermarkets, that offered more options even if they were more expensive. And a month later, I would find a small bodega-like store nearby with really cheap vegetables. It became my go-to place!
Fish just wasn’t easy to come by even though we were by the water. I have lived, worked and traveled to over two dozen countries from Santo Domingo to Morocco. All major meat-eating countries where I was fine as a pescovegetarian. I eat seafood, eggs, and cheese. But eventually, Argentina brought an end to my decade-long vegetarianism/pescetarianism. This was a small taste of life in a pseudo-socialist country. Where options are minimal, and the option to tailor your diet is a luxury.
Classism and Racism in Argentina
My Peruvian roommates recounted some of their traumatic experiences of being kicked out of cabs for being Peruvian, more than once. Discrimination against Peruvians, Bolivians, and Paraguayans apparently is not uncommon in Argentina. Not cool.
If you think I’m being overly negative, I’ll leave you with this last tidbit: there is a too common Argentine saying that refers to people as being black as an insult.
Sexism and Machismo in Argentina: Beware the Street Harassment
Is it Me? Why Am I so Negative?
I wondered, is it me? Am I being overly negative? Perhaps it’s this frigid cold weather and the lack of sunshine for almost a year now. Doesn’t every country have problems like this in some way? No. Not in this combination which particularly threw me off. And it also wasn’t just me. There were members of my exchange program who had changed their flights to leave earlier out of disappointment.
This is not an attack on the Argentine people. There are lots of wonderful Argentine folks, some whom I’m still in touch with today. Just because I’m pointing out qualities that shocked me so that others may not suffer through the same shock does not mean I ignored the positive aspects of Buenos Aires: the delicious wines, the incredible Krakow bar my uncle worked in, the cool architecture, the pretty markets, my discovery of Argentine brie cheese, yerba mate outside of Buenos Aires, the high levels of education among the Argentine youth…
Also, note that I wasn’t in Buenos Aires lavishly spending money and only doing the tourist trail for a week. I was living and working here, immersed in the local way of living.
Maybe this was more than culture shock. Maybe it was a reality check to life outside of capitalism and more racial diversity. But either way, I got a closer look at the realities of living in Buenos Aires, which I was not warned about in any of the romanticized travel guides. I’d also like to note that I absolutely loved Mendoza and many other parts of Argentina outside of Buenos Aires… Iguazu Falls is also an incredible place to visit! I’m still incredibly grateful for my experience in living in Buenos Aires, Argentina. It opened my eyes and enriched my perspective of the world a little better, even if it stung.